Egypt Part-2
A train journey, Luxor, and Alexandria
A week of routine passes by. I clean the public spaces, Gonzalo continues his mural, and Hannah helps at reception. Most guests come for a day or two, see the site and leave. I chat with some when I can but it’s short lived. I remember one lady, I think she was from Malaysia(?) but now lives in Invercargill, New Zealand. We talk about our times traveling in that country, things we saw and did. I remember a girl from Saudi Arabia going to university here. The first Saudi I ever met. She was in a hurry though, so I didn’t get a chance to ask her about her country. She carried herself in a manner her country expects her to. I remember a Chinese student from Harvard Business School. The first Puerto Rican I met was here. While we agreed that PR is different and even views itself as separate, I still had to point out appreciating the privilege of a US passport. I met an older Danish guy who was also in the Navy. He traveled through Iraq, Iran, and Afghanistan back in the 60’s/70s’. Back when those countries were peaceful and progressive. He was humble but you could tell he had some serious stories to tell. I meet a guy briefly in passing from Australia, but then two months later by complete random chance I run into him hiking in the mountains of Lesotho (a future article)! Just the two of us in the wilderness. That was really funny. I remember an Aussie girl who said she had bribed the police so she can climb the Pyramid. She said the energy at the top felt reverent. I’m sure it was. She as well has been to Mongolia (also a future article), so we shared a good connection. And I remember meeting a Canadian girl on my last day that shared similar deep thoughts as me about life.
So many people, so many stories. I always like imagining what their life is/was like. We all have memories going back to our earliest days. It’s all in our minds but not in others. Only you have seen everyday of your life. Your eyes, your soul; and to meet others as we go through this life it makes the exchange all the more profound. Sometimes I think about how every single action, every single choice we have made across our entire lives has led us to meeting. What are the odds? It’s not like I will meet all 8 billion+ people in this world, but I met you. That’s pretty crazy. Do we meet certain individuals for a reason? What if I had spent an extra 10 minutes to take a dump when I was 10 years old? Who knows, an entirely different life maybe.
Today we have to clean out a side room in the Loft which is large enough to renovate into a dining hall. It is absolutely full of stuff. This room has been closed off for far too long. We have to load it all up onto a dump truck. The dozen of us daisy chain various pieces of furniture, kitchenware, and bedroom parts. This is the dustiest room I have ever been in in my entire life. Like opening up a damn tomb we should have donned SCBA’s. We break off chunks as heavy as clay from the blinders to allow light and fresh air inside. Eventually we swap to the outside and I watch dust fuming out of the windows like fog. My hair and eyebrows are caked in grey particles. Yosef and Ahmed sweep up the floor full of broken glass and rusty shards.
We have to drop all this stuff at a different location. The truck is nearly overflowing, and we all clamber up on top. There are no ratchet straps, so we wedge ourselves in between pieces to hold things down. In America this would probably never fly, possibly an OSHA violation, but this is Egypt. We roll out onto the road and cruise through local neighborhoods. The guys look unfazed but I’m feeling excited. Not every day you ride a dump truck through the streets of Cairo. I wave to locals as we go by. Some street kids chase after us for a block, laughing as children should be. Many alleyways between these buildings are just sand.
We stop after a half hour to an abandoned apartment building. Three floors, falling apart and its filthy. Is this another community dump site? We line up and hand things off, piling them on top of each other in the corners of each floor. There are holes in the roof. Bright rays of sunlight pierce the darkness further inside. Perhaps a group of 20 locals gather around outside, curious to see what is happening. The next-door neighbor, a lady in full burkha and with her children, brings over a large thermos of chai tea. The kids were very young, toddlers. Their bright eyes and wide smiles light up in surprise to hear English. Ahmed cuts out cups from the bottom half of old plastic bottles and pours everyone a drink. The hotness of the tea was making the old plastic soft and flimsy. I know that’s not healthy, but everyone is in good spirits. We sip the tea in good faith!
It was a long day today. Usually, WorkAway aims to be part time volunteering. 4-5hrs per day during the week. We’re not employees. Just room and board in exchange. Sometimes however, things happen, and you might work more. Of course you don’t have to. I don’t mind though if the people are good and I’m enjoying myself. It still adds to the travel experience.
The next day Ahmed asks us to clean another local apartment for use as an Airbnb. Hannah and I go with him using public transport. The local way is by small white minivans. No signs, no English. I have no idea what their system is or the routes they take. The vans stop and go along the road, people waving them down. Pass money up to the front. We get some curious but friendly looks. Hannah has to remember to wear a head scarf. Packed in this van it was funny. There must be 16 of us in a space designed for 10. So much communication can happen even with a language barrier. I glance over at the lady squashed up next to me wearing traditional covering and ask, “Hey how you doin?”, she laughs but says nothing. A kid in the seat in front of me looks over with wide eyes. I smile “Marhaba!” Even the Driver laughs.
The Airbnb was up several flights of stairs. No elevators here. We just sweep and wash the floors. It was interesting though to get an insight on the set up of what a local’s situation could look like. No carpet, all tiled flooring. Not a lot of space for a family but ok for a single person. The view out the window is a long alleyway with similar living arrangements stretching for many blocks. The buildings were lined with colorful laundry, with the uninhabited Sahara on the horizon. After the work was done, we walk around a few blocks. Ahmed takes us to a Gelato shop. You know a place is local when there is no sign. It was mighty fine.
The weekend comes and we’re off. I want to go see the Museum. The way Ahmed explains the public transport on how to get there he made it sound hassle free. I know it may not be haha. On the map it looks simple. A straight shot from Giza, make a left at the Nile and then turn right over the 6th of October Bridge. Pass the Cairo Tower and there is the Museum. It doesn’t look far only 17km(10ish miles). Should be easy. Let’s see what happens.
On the street I try to ask some people which van goes towards the river, but nobody knows what I’m saying. After standing out here in the chaotic traffic for a half hour, I see a larger bus come up and I decide to just get on. Perhaps by luck the bus goes past the bridge. Good enough! I get off and walk across. The bridge goes above Gezira Island. A nice venue of restaurants, upscale hotels, casino, boat clubs, Opera House, and the Tower. I didn’t go up there, but it has a revolving restaurant and boasts a great view of the city.
The History Museum sits right off the intersection after I cross to the other side. It holds all the famous artifacts tracing back thousands of years. There’s a long line to get in and of course many offers for a tour guide. I just want to walk and take it all in by myself. No photos are allowed inside unless you apply for a permit (or possibly if the price is right). I did see police vigilantly asking people to put their phones away and not take pictures. You could spend days in here. So much of Egypt’s ancient history in one spot. They had a room full of mummies from different dynasties. It was surreal staring face to face with the past pharaohs. The cherry on top of it all though is the mask of Tutankhamun. It sits encased in glass and has a roped off perimeter with police. You can still get close to it. I’m blown away by the intricacies of the mask. It was beautiful. I stare for a long time. Just enjoying the moment.
After some hours exploring, I go back out and walk into the downtown and Talaat Harb Square. Its clean, quiet, and the buildings have this golden touch to them. I loop around to another bridge where I get hassled to visit “my friend’s shop”.
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Gonzalo, Hannah, and I decide to take the train to Luxor. Ahmed buys us the tickets at the local price. It’s a night train and will take 12 hours. The station is just north of downtown Cairo. I remember getting dropped off around Ramsis Square and walking under the overpass to get to the station. It’s a busy place, cars and people everywhere. Even at night it is still hot and humid, sweat quickly soaked my back with my bag on. Inside the terminal its massive but was relatively clean and organized. I don’t recall any English signs, but people were friendly and pointed to the correct train to take. There’s a car number and seat number in Arabic but once again we were directed to the right place. I remember a group of teens wearing fashion that looked identical to the cartoon characters from the band Gorillaz. They were staring at us like as if we were the first tourists they had ever seen. We were definitely in a local spot. I saw no other foreigners.
We left around 9:00PM and will arrive at Luxor in the morning. The seating is basic cushions and not that comfortable. No services for food or water and the bathroom is a squat hole with no toilet paper. There are slip stains on the floor. I decide I will try to hold it. We brought what we think we’ll need to sustain ourselves for the trip. The train follows the river, but we won’t see any views until the morning. We try to sleep but the lights stay on, and the train is not the smoothest. We make short stops at various towns along the way. I noticed people getting on would quietly argue with others who were already sitting down, and it looked like they were trying to kick them out of their seat. It happened at every stop. What’s going on? One guy came up to me and motioned for me to get up. I showed him my ticket and told him this is my seat. He looked annoyed and kept walking. That was weird. I concluded if I got out of my seat for any reasons it would be quickly taken. I don’t remember seeing any ticket conductors so maybe people try to ride without paying.
Sunrise comes and now my eyes are glued to the window. We are going right along the river. On the other side is lush date palm trees and vibrant agriculture stretching only a kilometer or two before the inhospitable sand dunes begin. Such an extreme contrast between bright greenery and golden desert. We pass a farmer using an ox to plow his field. His child was standing on top of the wooden hoe to help press it into the dirt. That’s as old school as it gets. No machines out here.
All of us were sore from the journey. The hostel we are staying at is called Bob Marley House. In Luxor of all places! With that kind of name might as well book a bed. The hostels you end up at are part of the travel experience too. It takes about 15min to walk there. It was really nice actually. On the walls are various flags, quotes, and stickers from all the past travelers. They had a nice lounge on the ground floor and a converted roof terrace perhaps 10 floors up. After checking in we hang out on the roof for a while. Next to us is a school. It seemed like the entire school was greeting us. Perhaps 100 kids in the courtyard jumping excitedly and waving frantically. Their high-pitched laughter echoing off the buildings. In the distance we can see the Valley of the Kings. We’ll go there soon. We decide to chill out for today. I have a dorm room all to myself. Always a blessing.
Despite being a Muslim country, alcohol is plentiful. Usually in the upscale places or tourist spots. There are, however, local stores. They tend to be unmarked and out of site from main streets. They’re generally small and behind other shops. We go searching for one of these back-alley bungalows and find one after some effort. We buy some bottles of Stella, a popular brew. Not to be confused with Artois. It’s pretty good. They sell it to us in black bags. The small shop is jammed packed with locals. I’m not sure on the rules for Muslims when it comes to alcohol. Perhaps the Egyptians are more relaxed about it? I remember in Malaysia it was nearly forbidden except in the tourist/expat spots.
Back at the Bob Marley House I meet an English fellow in his 50’s. Watching a Manchester United game and surrounded by empty Stella bottles. Yelling at the TV in proper British fashion. Classic. I told him I thought it would be pretty cool to go to a game someday. He goes on a tirade about the sport, the hooligan gangs and how things were back in his day. He then told me about his time in the Army. Did a full career and then decided to travel the world off his pension. He was fit for his age, but he was also 20 bottles deep. I leave him to the match after commercials.
Next morning we book a tour. There are many sites to see in Luxor, which used to be the ancient city of Thebes. We stop first at the Colossi of Memnon. The last remains of the temple of King Amenhotep. There are too many temples to count here. We stand in front of two massive statues that used to flank the entrance. The ruins go far back several blocks, most remaining buildings have just the lining of stone on the ground.
Beyond at the base of the mountain is the Temple of Hatshepsut. After we park, we have to walk through some tourist trap shops to get to the temple. So many dudes here were yelling trying to sell Salah futbol jerseys. I think he plays for Liverpool.
They all sounded like this:
Anyways, once we got past that I was really amazed with the view. I believe they had to do some renovations to the site because it was falling apart. Either way, the presentation was suburb. There is a long ramp like staircase leading up to it. The remains of hieroglyphs are on the walls and ceiling.
Some of the hieroglyphs are defaced and purposely destroyed. A shame. After so many years however, it still is unfathomable how much has survived to the present day. I can only imagine the amount of robbing that must have occurred across all ancient sites throughout this country.
After that we go to the Valley. Similar rules like the Museum. Photos inside not allowed unless you have a permit, or the price is right. The tombs of the Pharaohs are absolutely unreal. They said it takes a lifetime to build some of these burial sites. The details are unbelievable. There are some hieroglyphs in here that still hold impeccable clarity. A few rooms are closed off with airtight glass and the paint still looks fresh. The mountain is solid rock and I try to envision the amount of work that went into it. The tombs are carved like a tunnel and burrow far down to the resting chamber. Another place you could spend days looking at every detail.
Back in town there is the Luxor and Karnak Temple. It’s also mind-blowing thinking about how they were built. We spend the rest of the day and into the evening going through both of them.
Off the central roundabout is a koshari restaurant and just for a few dollars we feast. Going back to the hostel, the English Army Vet was throwing a fit, yelling in the lounge claiming someone stole his beer. I still have a dorm room to myself, so I pass off into some good sleep.
Gonzalo and Hannah were leaving for India. They had the train back to Cairo today. Some people from the hostel invited me to a shisha lounge. It was located down a back alley on a local street. Inside was really cozy. I said to them both while they were packing to come and meet us before they leave. After some time in the lounge, they didn’t show up and I get a message from Hannah saying they couldn’t find us and had to catch their train. Oh well. Such is life. Safe travels and see you later.
My Father sent me a message, telling me my Uncle had passed away. He asked me to throw a rock in the Nile for him. I stroll along the boardwalk. It was quiet today. I was alone here. Waves from the river slowly lap onto the shore. I toss a rock in and look across towards the Valley. The End will happen to all of us. I sit at the riverbank for a few hours deep in reflection…
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The train had burned me out and I did not have the drive to continue down the river. Further south lies Aswan and Abu Simbel. They are worth seeing if you are up to the journey. I was missing the sea however and decided to book a train straight to Alexandria. In a short 18 hours I’ll be back at the Mediterranean. I leave the hostel and begin the ride north. Just like last time, people coming on would try to kick others out of their seat. I had to keep showing my ticket. It was so confusing why they keep doing this. I’ll be planted here until we arrive. I slowly manage my water and snacks to avoid the slip-stained open hole in the floor toilet. It was a rough night, but in the morning, I get to see the Nile Delta. A lot of greenery up here and I can no longer glimpse the desert.
Arriving early in the morning to Alexandria was refreshing. The weather is much more pleasant here. I can smell the sea and there is a nice breeze in the streets. Walking around, the vibe feels calmer and more relaxed compared to Cairo. Even the drivers seem more laid back. Not as much obsessive honking. It seems more local as well. I walk towards the coast but don’t get a view until the last block. The compressed buildings open up to the wide expanse of the Med and the edges of Europe just beyond the horizon. I stop at a cafe and take it in all morning. During my few days here, I was never hassled for money like at other places in Egypt.
I can’t find on the map the hostel I stayed at, but I remember it was 10 floors up in a high rise next to the sea. They had a great balcony to relax from.
Before going to sleep I walk around a few blocks. I remember a guy selling crepes on the street. His English was surprisingly good and a first I’ve encountered in local areas. He said he was an engineer but the economy in Egypt has made things difficult. He was surprised to randomly meet an American on his block and he gave me a second crepe for free.
In the morning, I walk down the waterfront all the way to the Citadel of Qaitbay. Built by the Mamluks it was an impressive sight. Some kids asked me to take a selfie with them at the front gate. I spend some hours exploring the castle.
There are many things to see in this city. Walking back up the waterfront I pass the Unknown Soldier Memorial, The Library, and the Stanley Bridge. The library of course serves as a contemporary landmark for the ancient site. Its modern-day equivalent provides a prideful testament to the legacy of knowledge. Walking around inside it was full of students. Behind the library was a great street food area. The crepes here are amazing and I can’t stop eating them. I also go and visit a Roman Theater. I remember seeing a perfectly preserved bathtub in the ruins.
At the hostel I meet my first Moroccan. He was pretty cool and told me about different places around his country to visit. I know I’ll have to make my way over there eventually. I spend another day exploring various streets. It rained heavily today, and I stand under the entrance door to a man’s shop while I wait for the downpour to pass. He was kind enough to give me chai while I was there.
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My visa was nearing its end, so it was time to make my way back to Cairo. It was a shorter train ride this time so not as miserable as before. It was a pain however trying to get back to the Loft. The Cairo Metro was interesting to take but it was hot as an oven in there. I got lucky with one of those white vans and got close enough to Giza to walk the rest of the way. Ahmed greets me when I come, and I spend just a few more days WorkAway’ing here. Mopping the floors past the murals Gonzalo and Hannah had finished was nice to see, but the space felt empty now that they were gone.
The next day while sweeping sand down the stairwell, I hear an Aussie group coming down. It was the girl (the one who had also been to Mongolia) and her friends who just got back from Dahab. They tell me their stories and I decide that if I ever come back to Egypt someday, I’m going to explore the Sinai Peninsula. Later that night we chill out on the terrace with the Pyramid view. I remember one song that brings back memories of that moment:
I take one last walk around Giza, paying careful attention to avoid the camel feces minefield. Down an alley right in front of the Sphinx, I see a wedding taking place. They were dancing and celebrating. I stand on the outskirts and observe for a while. They had a live band, and the drums were very loud but exciting. A little girl possibly no older than 3 or 4 comes up to me, grabs my hand and dances with me. She tries to twirl me but she’s so small I have to hunch over to grab her hand. The older folks sitting down look over and smile. This little girl and I laugh together, and I look over at the Sphinx perched in its place seemingly staring right at us. Just another moment of human life it has observed over the thousands of years. I hope it doesn’t forget me.
My time in Egypt has come to an end. I say goodbye to Ahmed and the others at reception. As my Uber leaves Giza, I get one last good look at the Pyramids just as they begin the light show. Truly, what an incredible experience. It’s just one of those places I think everyone should go and see. A wonderful memory. I take an overnight flight to Johannesburg. It was unfortunate not to get a view of so much African continent along the way, but the timing made sense. After my layover I hop on a short flight and arrive in the morning to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho. A small mountainous country completely landlocked by South Africa. A future article coming soon. One of the most profound countries I’ve been to.
Thank you so much for reading my stories. I’m really enjoying getting my memories out here and will continue to improve how I want to articulate my experiences. I hope to make you feel like you were there with me.
Until next time!
-AbroadwithBrian
Wow, you had quite the trip.
I was there in 2022 and wrote several articles on my journey.
One of my posts was specifically on the train trip. The Worst Must-do Experience in Egypt. Like you, I will never forget it.
At least on my trip, we had sleeper cabins with a toilet at the end of the car. Not that it made any difference to the cleanliness.