Georgia-Part 1
Arriving in Tbilisi and my first time renting a car
July-August 2016
Being in a rush to get to the airport in Almaty, I slipped up and got ripped off by a taxi driver. Not too much overpriced, but it is what it is. I let it go. My mind is in Tbilisi. I did no research. I want to be surprised...I got what I wished for. I flew over the steppes of Kazakhstan back to Astana. I recall the flight time barely over an hour (the train took 18~hrs). After a few hours’ layover, we were off. Unfortunately, it was cloudy over the Caspian Sea. It is still on my dream list to swim in its waters someday. Not long later we began our descent, flying over the city to landing. Through the window I get a glimpse of the massive golden topped Holy Trinity Cathedral and unique design of the Bridge of Peace. Let’s go!
As I go through customs, I get pulled aside by the officers. They have me open my backpack and take everything out. Asking many questions about what I was doing here, where I am staying, where will I go, how long will I stay, etc. Perhaps they randomly pull people, or something about me seemed suspicious. I only ever travel with carry on. I rarely have more than 12kilos(25lbs) worth of stuff on me. In a few minutes though I was let go and out into Arrivals.
How did I get the idea to come here? This country first came to mind in 2008. I was in school back then when I saw on the news about the war between them and Russia. I had to look up pictures of the country, find it on the map and I was instantly captivated. I won’t make political comments, but on the map, you can see the disputed lines drawn over Georgia’s territory. In the present day when the war with Ukraine started, there was animosity by locals as Russians crossed the border trying to leave the country.
Anyways, I walk out of the airport and take a deep breath. Love that first moment in a new country. “Holy cow, I made it!”, I laugh to myself. Traffic got bad as the bus made its way into the center, the roads steadily growing narrower and becoming cobblestone in most places. The city is half on small mountains, tall hills, and half in a valley. First thing I noticed is that there are churches everywhere. On nearly every other street corner.
I don’t remember the name of the hostel, but this was the first one I’ve ever been to where we slept on mattresses on the floor of the attic, stacked next to each other. It was a large space, perhaps 20 beds. Fresh, cool air blew in from the windows and I look out around the local streets. I remember a good mix of nationalities, a dozen languages being spoken at the same time, but no Americans.
Time for the first of many walks. Tbilisi is spread out and would probably take me months to stroll through all its streets. The main hill in the center has a fortress and a statue of a woman on top. In one hand she holds wine for her friends, in the other, a sword for her enemies. The fortress is well preserved, and you can get all the views from up here. You can either take the cable car up or get a good workout in by walking the steep road to the entrance. It is a tourist hot spot so there were many people either asking you to book a tour, trying to sell you something, or just plain asking for money.
Below that you have the old town, they have this food called Khachapuri. Cheese bread with egg. There is also Churchkhela hanging outside all the shops. Made usually from walnuts draped in grape juice with flour and formed into gelatin. Unique to the region, it’s a popular go to. The old lady at the shop that I bought from taught me my first words in their language. “Garmajoba.” Hello, and “Madloba.” Thank you. The Georgian language is something else. The handwritten script is indecipherable to me. Lines drawn in confusing circles. How people came to understand and create such a fascinating dialect is beyond me.
From here the road curves and goes to the bridge and crosses over the river to Rike Park. A lot of good hangout spots here with some cool architecture in the vicinity. If memory serves me well, they have nice lights set up and at the bridge come nighttime. Crossing to the other side I climb the hill which the other half of the city sits on. The stairs take me to a portion of the main road (or maybe highway) with no crossings or sidewalk. It was pretty busy, and people were driving fast. There was a curve here so you couldn’t see too far down the road. After many minutes I think I have a break in traffic and try running across. At that moment a car comes flying around the corner, laying on their horn and passing me by a few inches. The wind force of the vehicle giving me a push and a heart check. Perhaps nowadays the road has seen some pedestrian improvements…Onwards!
From here the narrow streets quickly become a maze, but surprisingly quiet from the commotion of traffic. Above this neighborhood lies the Cathedral, its golden roof had been shining in my eyes from the plane. I pass under a gate and into a long courtyard lined by cross adorned columns. Inside I couldn’t take pictures but it’s as beautiful as you can imagine for a place of worship.
Back down in the valley, I end up at a large roundabout called Liberty Square. A golden statue depicting St. George riding a horse and killing a dragon sits on top of a pillar. Further down the street you can find Tbilisi’s old sulfur baths. They have these brick domed roofs. Some of these places go back to the 5th century. If you’re in the mood for one check it out! There are various types for your budget and what you want to get out of these spas.
As cool as this city is, the scenery is what calls me. I’ve heard this place is great for the Digital Nomad/Expat community, but after a couple days I want to get out of here. In old town, there are a couple of car rental offices. I get a little Elantra for $600 for 2 weeks. It was my first time renting a car to do a road trip, so I was pretty excited. In a country like this of all places. Even though this country is small, it will take some time to navigate around it.
It was nerve racking trying to get out of the center. Not much space on the streets. Seems like everyone is in a rush. Once out of the center the main highway has some people who think they are in Fast & Furious. Flying down the left lane easily over 100mph, they’ll flash their high beams and honk at you to move over. On some shoulders or under the bridge at intersections, I see groups of people waiting for public vans to pick up or drop off. Some people at the hostel told me these vans can stop and go anywhere so if you need a ride just stand out on the road and try to wave one down.
Be careful while driving as it is common for cows to lay on the road. Why they like the road, I don’t know, but dozens of them can be sprawled across every so often. After an hour I’m finally out of civilization and embraced by nature. How can I describe? It’s like something out of a dream. Jagged green mountains, leading ever higher to bright white glaciers. The Caucasus form their own Great Wall, between the Black Sea and the Caspian. A barrier between Eastern Europe and West Asia. Some of my pictures are lost to the void. One thumb drive broken by an unknown reason. Others were on an old phone that got stolen. A few others lost on a Go-Pro that fell off a cliff (a future story).
I make a stop at the Ananuri Fortress. Well preserved and overlooking a reservoir since the 16th century, once again I take a long minute imaging life in the old days. There’s a church inside the ramparts and a stone gazebo at the end. The water has a teal blue to it. I wonder how it was made.
Continuing my drive, I see a couple on the road hitchhiking. I decide to pick them up. Igor and Yulia from Ukraine. The first I’d ever met. They were on a loop from Ukraine, Russia and Georgia by thumb only and now back on their way home. We continue north and watch in awe as the road becomes more entrenched within the ever-increasing mountain summits. After an hour we stop at the Gudauri monument. A concave arch with incredible murals sits on the backdrop of canyon views. It was packed though when we went, but worth the moment. It is popular with parasailing, and we got a lot of offers to go.
I’m curious to see the border with Russia. I remember the road was steep in-between sharp, rocky towers. Eventually the road becomes rough gravel and not suitable for the Elantra. There is a military checkpoint on the Georgian side a few miles from the Russian border. It’s as close as I can get. We turn around and go to Kazbegi.
The Gergeti Trinity Church sits on top of a mountain overlooking the town of Stepantsminda. We decide to hike up. There’s another village of the same name halfway up. After a few short hours we make it and enjoy the mind-blowing views of the range across the valley.
Back down at a campground, us trio grab some vodka and make a bonfire. We observe an endless line of truckers waiting for the border to open. A caravan of semi’s trailing off into the distance. We talk about our lives. I try to imagine life in Ukraine. They show me pictures of the Carpathian Mountains and I decide instantly that I’ll have to go someday. They also tell me about Crimea, and I’m lost in fascination. I would have gone there by now if Russia had not taken it…Yulia tells me a story from a few weeks ago about a kid calling cows “Georgian moooooooo” as we have some cows for neighbors here. After a good night of laughs, we’re off to sleep.
In the morning, they say goodbye and I watch them as they walk out, thumbs up. Pictures of us were also lost to the void, but they live on in my memories. I pack up and prepare to head west…
Thanks for reading and stand-by for Part 2. I’ve been quite busy lately. Started a new job and will have to write about it sometime. A new adventure, as always.
Until next time!
-AbroadwithBrian
Georgia is a great place, I enjoyed travelling there! Why did you rent a car? Marshrutkas are very cheap and they bring you everywhere.