Road Trip To Newfoundland-Part 3
The spark to the fire
June-2014
While waiting to get on board the ferry, a retired couple strikes up a conversation with me. They had ridden their motorcycles all the way from Alberta. Greg and Ginette. She said I can call her Gigi. She was surprised I came up here alone.
“Wow you’re only 22 and you drove all the way here by yourself? That’s incredible!”
“I don’t know, I’m just driving haha.”
It will take about an hour to reach the end of the fjord and back. We could not have gotten any luckier with the weather. The top of the mountains is lined in a thin carpet of fog. As we go further the cliffs get higher and become like a wall. You could almost be in Norway right now. All of us crowd the outside of the boat to get a good picture.
It was totally worth visiting after waiting out the last several days in a rained-out campground. Gigi and I talk about life while on the boat. Always wonderful the people we meet on the road. We still stay in touch to the present day.
I start to drive north but decide I don’t have enough time in my leave schedule. We had some drills in the Navy coming up and then back out to sea. I’m already halfway through my time off and still have to finish the loop to St. Johns and then back.
The far north of Newfoundland becomes a narrow peninsula. At the end sits the ruins of a small Viking village called L’Anse aux Meadows. Really incredible to imagine how they managed to make their journey from Scandinavia all the way here. Various studies suggest that the Vikings made it to America before Columbus. Even though I did not travel to that part of the island, if you like history and happen to be up here then I would recommend it.
I turn around and head back east on the main road. A few hours later I get the engine overheating light on my dashboard. Hmmmm…I pull over and open the hood. It looks like the coolant is near empty. It was full before I left Connecticut. I didn’t think the car would consume so much coolant. I don’t see any leaks. Then again, I’ve been driving a lot. After many minutes, I put a tiny amount of water in and continue on with the hood up hooked on the latch. Thankfully not long after I made it into a small town, I think it was Grand Falls-Windsor. I found a shop and got some coolant. I don’t remember the cashiers face, but I do remember the curious look he gave me. At the time I had Virginia license plates on the car. Not something you see every day in NL.
Outside from there, I take the Hwy 340 to Twillingate. It’s a small town on a small island of the same name. The road goes through several causeways and crosses other islands to get there. As I near the bay I’m met with a surprising sight: Icebergs! The numerous islands and bays here sometimes “catch” the ice as its drifts around after the winter. Even though it’s June, Twillingate still appears almost frozen. I drive to the end of the road and the ocean.
It’s been over a week now sleeping in the tent or car. I ask around a few places here, but they are all $200-300 for a night. I decided then not to stay, instead continue and get back on the highway. Things were getting dark when I arrived in Gander. There were construction projects, and many streets were rough gravel. After searching various street corners for a possible car camping spot, I was feeling burned out, so I looked at the map, see a Comfort Inn and head there. “$140.”, said the lady at reception. Well, it is what it is.
The next afternoon on the drive towards Terra Nova National Park, I stop at a liquor store for my upcoming camping days. I have a New Mexico License so you can imagine the surprise when they asked for my ID. The campground at TN was nearly empty and in a thick forest. I love the smell of Fir and Pine trees. I relax out here and hike around. There’s a cove that leads to the ocean and is part of a bird sanctuary. I did not see much wildlife though. I still haven’t seen even one moose despite innumerable warning signs. It was quiet enough out here to hear your heartbeat.
Now for the final stretch to St. Johns. The road turns more into a highway and even some traffic as I get nearer. There’s an intersection on the road that goes to the small town of Fortune. Here you can take the ferry to St. Pierre and Miquelon. A collection of small islands and a territory of France. The last remnants of France’s colonial hold in North America. I didn’t have time to go but I think it would be fascinating to visit someday.
Another hour of driving and I make it into St. Johns. The city sits in a protected harbor hugged by tall hills. On top is the National Historic Site of Signal Hill. Up here there are views of the city and ocean. There are also bunkers and cannons set up from back in the day. Just outside the bay are more icebergs and a cold wind. Some of the streets in downtown were narrow, the buildings packed together but really colorful. Things had a very European feel all around.
It was not the end of the road, however. Just outside of town is Cape Spear, the true finish line. The most eastern point on the North American Continent. It felt awesome to stand there. I’ve always loved unique geographical locations.
I spend the rest of the day walking around the streets and the waterfront. It’s a really nice area and holds the night life here. It was a Friday night but perhaps there was some event because I could not find parking anywhere. At the time I didn’t know about hostels, so I booked a guesthouse just outside the center. There are some one-way streets here. As it gets dark, I’m put on a road out of town and get lost. Some streets had no lights and in complete darkness, I come to a fork and go right. The road becomes gravel. While driving, all of a sudden I come upon a rapid decline and a deep ditch. I hit the brakes as my right tires are most definitely half off the road. That’s as close as I’ve ever been to a rollover accident. I slowly correct and back up. Retracing the route, I go left at the fork and arrive at the neighborhood with the guesthouse. Crisis averted.
At this point I only had 5 days left before having to be back in Connecticut. I take another quick drive through town and that’s it, time to make my way towards the ferry to Nova Scotia. Leaving town, I take a left at the intersection to Highway 100 and a Tim Hortons. This road takes me to Argentia and the ferry. Its approximately 18 hours and will sail through the night. The ferry is half full, so it was a quiet ride. I take a long look at Newfoundland as it fades in the distance. What a place. I remember it was only me at the bar and some funny conversations with the bartender.
In the morning, I take off down to Halifax. Perhaps 5 hours of driving. After being in some remote areas, the city felt large to me. Some of my Navy friends had port calls here and had good things to say, so I was eager to take a walk around and explore. There is a historic citadel and museum on a hill looking over downtown. Has a star design. There is a guard in traditional uniform standing stoically outside. No barriers around. It was nice to see no one f*cking with him like the ones at Buckingham Palace.
The boardwalk has tons of hang out spots and wonderful cafes. You can see Dartmouth on the other side. There’s a Maritime and Science Museum. It was a Sunday night in downtown so things were quiet, but just like any city center you have plenty of choices between bars and restaurants.
Last on my list is Prince Edward Island. A unique island and the smallest province. Unfortunately, my last two days in Canada will be spent in rain. Just past the border into New Brunswick you can take Highway 16 to get there. The main route goes across Confederation Bridge. It’s one of Canada’s longest at 8 miles and holds the record for longest bridge in the world over frozen water. It was foggy when I went but I do remember how the drive felt like forever to cross it.
There is a toll, but only to go back to the mainland. I recall it being around $45, though I’m sure the price has changed over the years. Through the rain, I can see green hills, some forest and farmland.
I’m going to PE National Park on the other side. I take a turn at Charlottetown, the capital. Honestly it feels like a large village. At the park I find a mix of red dirt and white sand beach. Because of the weather, I was the only one at the campground. The rain was peaceful, and I had the beach all to myself. I reflect on my first solo trip. It’s been a drive. I look out over the ocean and to the horizon and I know: If I could do this, I can accomplish any travel dream I set my sights on. This was just the beginning. The spark that lit the fire.
In the morning, I enjoy one last moment at the beach. Time to go back to work. Being in the military, we get 30 days of leave while most other Americans get 2 weeks. It’s not enough. So many other countries around the world have much longer paid time off. For many of us, those 2 weeks are unpaid. It’s unhealthy to be constantly working. Now I know how to maximize travel time. As things go on with Substack, the story will unfold more on how I continue to pull off all this traveling to the present day. I appreciate you sticking around to read more….After a 14-hour marathon I make it back to Connecticut. From peaceful and empty PE Island to fighting Boston traffic was an awful welcome back.
Back on base some guys at the barracks say: “Huh? Never heard of Newfoundland.”
Until next time!
-AbroadwithBrian